Cocos Keeling (AUS) – Richards Bay (ZAF)
Heavy rain pours down as the seas climb over the sides of the boat, showering us from all directions. The wind is gusting up to 40 knots. It’s pitch-dark, except when bolts of lightning illuminate the sky, sending shivers down our spines and putting us on high alert. “We really need an extra reef in the mainsail”, Ivar shouts while Luci races at full speed. As soon as the squall has passed, we reef the mainsail as fast as we can. Not much later, the next squall hits us. Luci behaves somewhat calmer but still tosses us around erratically because of a persistent cross-swell. “What misery, crossing the Indian Ocean”, Floris sighs.
Only two days ago, we left the Cocos (Keeling) Islands. The trade winds blew 25 knots under bright sunshine and we had excellent weather forecast ahead of us. Now, that seemed like an eternity ago. A tropical depression north of us surfaced which was inconsistent with the forecasters’ models. Instead, it is heading our way.
We head south-southwest and keep up the pace so we can stay ahead of the worst weather. Our tactic works. The showers and wind gusts do not get any worse and after a few days, the sun emerges from behind the clouds. We are still making great speed. Yet still, the cross-swell remains. Storms far south of us generate waves that mix with the waves from the trade winds. The result: irregular lurches that make crossing the Indian Ocean uncomfortable and exhausting. When will this stop?
To Stop or Not to Stop?
After more than 2,000 miles we approach the island of Rodrigues. “Yachts are not allowed to stop there!”, the authorities of Mauritius informed us when we set sail. But they are based on Mauritius’s main island, 500 miles away. Moreover, we learn that two other sailing boats are anchored in Rodrigues, so we take our chances and steer towards the island’s capital Port Mathurin, desperate for a break from crossing the Indian Ocean with its incessant storms and waves. The coastguard calls us on VHF and, fortunately, gives us permission to enter the port. Once moored at the concrete quay, one official after another boards Luci to clear us in. Everyone is very friendly and welcoming. They clearly don’t care much about the rules of their large neighbouring island. We just smile and, finally, relax.