Not Idyllic
From the viewpoint we look over the bay where Luci is anchored. The gigantic phosphate terminal disrupts the otherwise picturesque panorama. The other stain on the island is hidden from view, the prison. “Foreigners who have come to Australia illegally or whose residence permit has been revoked are detained here, sometimes for years,” Floris reads from an article he found on the topic. “Not every tropical island is equally idyllic,” Ivar remarks.
The next day, we see more evidence of Christmas Island’s schizophrenic image. Hayley and Kyle, two Australian sailors who just started working at a local resort, generously take us on a tour of “their” island. We walk through original forests, bathe under a pristine waterfall, and spot the island’s endemic birds. All the while we talk endlessly about sailing, distant destinations, and sustainability. We descend on stunning beaches, but once there we are shocked: unfathomable amounts of plastic float in the sea and cover large parts of the beach. Coconut crabs scurry among the junk that washes up here from all over the Indian Ocean. Within no-time each of us has filled the large garbage bags that we took along. Despite our best efforts, we realize that we hardly made it a dent. So much work remains to be done. Most importantly, the problem of plastic pollution must be tackled at the source.
A Touch of Asia After All
Our new Australian friends understand the dilemma of our route. Sailing means making choices. “But you will also find a piece of Asia here. We are only 200 miles from Java and there is a lot of Asian culture here!” To back up their words, they show us the mosque, an Islamic cemetery and small temples scattered around the island. A large proportion of the island’s inhabitants are of Asian descent and still practice the religion of their ancestors. Many of the shops are run by Asians and they sell all kinds of products from their continent. “We can soak up a bit of Asian culture after all,” Ivar smiles.